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Meet Alice Phillips

Alice Phillips
Chef + Traveler
Alice Bergen Phillips, the cheesemonger at Via Umbria, originally hails from Chicago, IL. Alice grew up in a family who loved to cook, eat, and travel, and spent much of her young life eating her way across England and France. After receiving her degree in International Politics and French from Bates College, Alice moved to DC to pursue a career in politics, only to discover that she enjoyed the world of specialty food much more than her chosen field of academic study. Upon this realization, Alice delved into the worlds of coffee, tea, wine, and ultimately, cheese. Alice now runs the Via Umbria cheese counter, bringing the best cheeses from far and wide to Georgetown.

The Art of Pairing Beer & Cheese

When most people think of pairing cheese with a beverage, they jump straight to wine. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good bottle with a beautiful wedge of cheese_it’s a classic combination for a reason! However, in the world of delicious pairings, there’s a whole other category that begs to be explored–beer. And with the current upswing in specialized craft brews, there’s all the more reason to branch out into this relatively unconventional pairing.

As it turns out, many people argue that beer and cheese make for the most natural pairing that you can find. Essentially, they’re fermented versions of the same thing–grass. As most people know, beer is made from wheat and barley, both of which are grasses. In fact, in addition to eating regular grass, cows are oftentimes fed grains left over from beer making to supplement their diet. While grass breaks down into lactose in cows’ stomachs, the grains are similarly broken down into maltose during the mash stage of making beer. Both lactose and maltose are sugars that are then fermented with yeast and turned into their final products.

The results of all of this fermentation may look vastly different, but they have very similar flavor profiles. You can find both cheeses and beers that are nutty and toasty, floral and fresh, or bitter and earthy. Needless to say, when paired correctly, they’re just delicious together.

So what does “paired correctly” mean? Well, as with all pairings, my firm belief is that whatever tastes best to you is what matters the most. When it comes to your preferences, there’s no such thing as “incorrect”–everyone’s tastebuds are different and tasting is a subjective art. That being said, there are a few guidelines that may help to steer you towards a more pleasing pairing.

First, let’s talk about balance. I find it’s best to pair cheeses with beers that have a similar amount of intensity in terms of flavor and texture. For example, a dark, heavy porter will completely overpower a light, fresh chevre. Similarly, a stink-tastic Taleggio or Epoisses will dominate a light, citrusy hefeweizen. You want each component to complement the other, not stomp it out completely or, arguably worse, bring out its lesser qualities.

Secondly, let’s discuss flavor. Pairing items with similar flavor notes tends to accentuate that particular component in a harmonious way. Think of that citrusy hefeweizen with the tangy, lemony chevre–the overall effect will be light, tart, and refreshing. That being said, if you’re feeling bold, you can also play the opposites attract card. Balancing salty and sweet is a popular way of doing this. Dark, chocolatey beers go well with salty blues–salty and sweet all in one bite!

Want more tips? On Wednesday, April 20th, our butcher and beer aficionado, Scott Weiss, and I will be hosting a beer and cheese pairing event at 7pm. We’ll be tasting and discussing four different cheese and beer pairings, featuring some of our imported Italian beers along as well as a few local brews. Come join us and explore the world of cheese and beer!

 

Alice Bergen Phillips
Alice Bergen Phillips

Tips From Our Expert Read more

When most people think of pairing cheese with a beverage, they jump straight to wine. Don't get me wrong, I love a ...

Fifty Pounds of Cheese

On Wednesday March 30, passport in hand, our intrepid MELTers traveled through the raclette rivers and fondue forests to visit each of our five amazing cheese stations. First stop? The accompaniments table! A veritable cornucopia of mouthwatering treats from homemade pretzel bites to Gordy’s pickles, to a selection of our favorite charcuterie, this table featured something special for everyone (and every cheese).

Passport to Cheese

Choosing Accompaniments

Next, our fearless cheese fiends found sanctuary in a down-home Midwestern favorite: Wisconsin Cheese Curds. These ooey-gooey, deep fried pieces of heaven were an instant classic–especially when paired with Chef Johanna’s homemade marinara! Don’t just take our word for it though, stop by Spritz O’Clock soon to taste these mini marvels for yourself.

Wisconsin Cheese Curds

Further into the cafe, our daring patrons were treated to the dazzling spectacle (and mouthwatering aroma) of raclette being melted to order. When paired with Gordy’s Pickles and starchy potatoes, this station was a #MELTy indulgence beyond compare. For those of you looking to recreate this moment at home, stop by and pick up a Partyclette machine from our cheesemonger and be the host with the most at your next dinner party.

Enjoying Plates of Raclette

Before following the scent of cheesy goodness upstairs, our noshing nomads made a quick stop in the wine room for a triumphant taste of American Pub cheese. This beer based bite of bliss paired perfectly with the Port City Porter and Chef Johanna’s homemade pretzel bites. Pretzels, porter, and pub cheese? What more could a party provide?!

Dipping into American Fondue

The answer to that question lay waiting for patrons upstairs in our laboratorio where Chiara was serving an Italian Fonduta over perfectly toasted baguette. This truffle infused #MELTy masterpiece was clearly a crowd favorite, as it was the first to disappear. Fortunately, Federico came to the rescue and delighted our dauntless diners with handmade cheese ravioli. For those who missed it, he will be hosting an encore pasta performance in the Cafe every day at lunchtime.

Italian Fonduta Station

Last, but certainly not least, our gallant and engorged guests found themselves faced with a meal of mountainous proportions…or at least flavors. The Alpine Fondue station, featuring smooth, garlicky, Swiss flavors had everyone yodeling for more.

Bill at the Alpine Fondue Station

We would like to say a special Thank You to all of our courageous cheese connoisseurs for making this event such a success. We went through fifty pounds of cheese, but our cheese counter is still stocked! For those of you who weren’t able to attend (or want to relive the night), we have a special treat: visit our cheese counter and take home a fondue kit, specially curated by in-house Cheesemonger Alice Bergen Phillips and make a little #MELTed magic of your own.

Mini Fondue Kits

A MELT Retrospective Read more

On Wednesday March 30, passport in hand, our intrepid MELTers traveled through the raclette rivers and fondue forests to visit each of ...

Just Fondue It

Here at Via Umbria, we’re more than fond of fondue. Cheese is amazing any way you slice it, but something inexplicably delicious happens when you add a little melt to the mix. On March 30th, we will be throwing a Fondue Fest to celebrate all things melty and cheesy. Here’s a taste of what we’re serving up!

FONDUE. Named Switzerland’s national dish, this delicious way of eating melted cheese has been adopted by much of the world. “Fondu,” the past participle of the French verb “fondre,” means melted. To keep fondue true to its name, a candle must be placed beneath the fondue pot to ensure the cheese remains in liquid form. Long forks are then used to dip bread or vegetables into the pot. Simple, cheesy, and amazing! Our party will take a look at three different sorts of fondue: the Alpine classic, made with Swiss cheese and white wine; Fonduta, an Italian-style fondue made with Fontina and truffles; and American pub cheese, a beer-and-cheese combo traditionally served with soft pretzels.

 

A candle keeps classic fondue at the perfect consistency.
A candle keeps classic fondue at the perfect consistency.

RACLETTE. Another Swiss cheesy treat. Raclette is one of my absolute favorite ways to consume melted cheese. Derived from the french word racler, meaning “to scrape”, Raclette is both the name of the cheese itself and the dish it’s used for. Traditionally, half a wheel of Raclette is heated in front of a fire, and then the melted part of the wheel is scraped off over boiled or roasted potatoes. In lieu of an actual fire, we’ll be using a Raclette machine to melt our amazing Swiss Raclette over potatoes (or potato chips, if you prefer a bit more crunch).

 

Raclette has an inviting, aromatic scent. Like Gruyère, it does not separate when melted.
Raclette has an inviting, aromatic scent. Like Gruyère, it does not separate when melted.

FRIED WISCONSIN CHEESE CURDS. Hailing from the midwest, this dish is near and dear to my heart. Cheese curds are the first form that any cheese takes. See, in order to make cheese, milk must be separated into curds (the solid part of the milk) and whey (the liquid part). After that, most cheese curds are formed and aged to create different styles of cheese. But you can also eat the curds themselves! They taste fresh and feel squeaky under tooth. You can also take those fresh curds, dip them in batter, and fry them into decadent melty nuggets. This, in my opinion, is where cheese curds reach their full potential.

These golden cheese curds are little fried bits of heaven.
These golden cheese curds are little fried bits of heaven.

When it comes to these fabulous varieties melted cheese, you simply can’t go wrong. At MELT: A Fondue Fest, we’ll have a different dipping station dedicated to each style, complete with accompaniments and wine or beer pairings. It’ll be the cheesy evening you’ve always dreamed of!

MELT: A Fondue Fest on Wednesday, March 30th at 7:00.

Tickets will be $35 in advance and  $45 at the door. Purchase your ticket before Saturday March 26 and you’ll be entered to win a prize in our #MELTsweeps:
Third Prize: Via Umbria’s limited edition Just Fondue It t-shirt;
Second Prize: A fondue pot to craft cheese creations (and maybe even host your own cheese party!);
First Prize: A custom cheese board;
Grand Prize: A complimentary wedge of cheese each month for a year!

See you there!

 

Alice Bergen Phillips
Alice Bergen Phillips

A fondue party to celebrate all things cheesy Read more

Here at Via Umbria, we're more than fond of fondue. Cheese is amazing any way you slice it, but something inexplicably delicious happens when ...

Demystifying the Cheese Board

Cheese is a wonderful way to begin or end a meal. Heck, it can even be a meal on its own! Many nights, I’ve grabbed bread, wine, and a hunk of my favorite cheddar or tomme and called it dinner. But creating a cheese board can be a bit overwhelming. How much should you use? How many varieties should you include? And with which accompaniments? I’m here to answer these questions and more. Let’s demystify the cheese board.

When buying for a cheese board, I get an ounce to an ounce and half of each cheese per person, depending on the cheese’s role in the meal. If it’s the star of the show, grab a little more. If it arrives at the end of the meal when everyone’s already stuffed, less is appropriate.

Now we can get down to business: choosing cheeses! Depending on how many people will partake in your fabulous board, I recommend selecting three to five cheeses. The rule of thumb here is variety. You should aim for a medley of milks (cow, goat, sheep, water buffalo, blends), a full spectrum of textures (fresh, soft, semi-soft, firm, hard), and an array of origins (French, Italian, Spanish, American, etc.). Unless you’re doing a themed plate, avoid a one-note cheese board and provide a wide range of offerings. Your local cheesemonger (me!) will be happy to help.

This splendid wheel of brie is an ideal leading lady.
Surrounded by spiced walnuts, dried cherries, cheddar chunks, and firm alpine wedges, this splendid wheel of brie makes a great leading lady.

 

So, once you’ve got all of these delicious cheeses, what do you do with them? Plating is one the best parts of my job. I adore the art of building a gorgeous piece out of natural ingredients that guests will ooh and ahh over. Everyone has their own style, but I always abide by the Three Plating Commandments.

The First Commandment: Get your cheeses up to temperature. Cold cheeses will have a muted taste and a firmer, duller texture than room-temperature cheeses. To get the most out of your cheeses, take them out of the fridge at least an hour, if not two hours, before serving.

The Second Commandment: Make the the cheese easy to eat. Soft cheeses don’t need to be precut into slices, because they can be easily scooped up and spread with a knife. Harder cheeses should be sliced or crumbled. Don’t underestimate the beauty of a pile of large, rustic crumbles! Aesthetically, steer clear of grocery store-style cubes. Instead, try a cascade of thinly sliced wedges. Pro-tip: slice your cheeses while they’re still a bit chilled for a smoother cut.

A beneficent spread is ideal.
No need to be shy with this endless spread.

 

The Third Commandment: Make your plate appear abundant. People are drawn to bounteous, plentiful arrangements. It’s also important to choose your plate or platter wisely, because going too big or too small can make plating difficult. Fill in the gaps between cheeses with accompaniments like slices of apple or pear, bunches of grapes, toasted walnuts, spiced pecans, and small bowls of jams or chutneys. Again, this is where your cheesemonger can be very helpful! Ask what would pair best with your specific cheeses. They might suggest fun combinations you hadn’t imagined! One of my off-the-wall favorites is very aged gouda (at least two years, but preferably four or five) with butterscotch sauce. The sweet nuttiness of the cheese combined with the salty-sweet sauce is just incredible.

I hope these tips help you navigate your next cheese board. Remember, when in doubt, talk to your cheesemonger. We’re here to make you feel comfortable with your selections, and to help you discover new and thrilling ways to explore the world of cheese!

 

Alice Bergen Phillips
Alice Bergen Phillips

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Fine Cheese and the Art of Affinage

One of the most exciting parts of being a cheesemonger is getting to know our cheese producers: the people whose love, care, and mastery create the decadent wheels that you see in our case. We stock the counter at Via Umbria with gorgeous cheeses from small farms, creameries, and affineurs that your average shopper won’t see at the supermarket. Meeting and developing relationships with these cheese artisans is one of the best parts of my job.

On a recent snowy morning, I had the privilege to visit Crown Finish Caves, a small-batch cheese producer located in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. The formerly industrial New York neighborhood is filled with empty turn-of-the-century factories like the one that houses Crown Finish Caves. Their old, brick building appears unremarkable at first sight, but a surprise lies in what’s buried underneath: long, damp tunnels.

 

A low, cavernous Crown Finish cellar.
A low, cavernous Crown Finish cellar.

 

When owners Benton Brown and Susan Boyle discovered these underground caverns, they scrapped their plan to convert the building into office space and turned their attention to producing cheese. Far-flung from the farm, the urban locale of Crown Finish posed unique challenges, namely procuring access to large quantities of milk. However, the climate of the tunnels that Brown and Boyle had unwittingly acquired proved perfect for affinage, the subtle art of aging cheese.

Affinage is what makes blue cheese blue, stinky cheese pungent, and gives brie and camembert their fuzzy white exteriors. It’s a large part of what makes every cheese distinctive. Brown, an artist with no former affinage experience, threw himself into mastering the tricks of the trade. He became well-versed on the subjects of temperature, humidity, and time requirements for aging different cheeses. He learned to recognize desirable and undesirable mold, and perfected the finer points of cleaning, brushing, washing, turning…all factors that go into creating a beautiful, unique cheese.

 

Say cheese ... and cheese ... and cheese ...
Say cheese … and cheese … and cheese …

 

Hanging out in a chill atmosphere.
Hanging out in a chill atmosphere.

Young cheeses, primarily from Northeastern farms, make their way to the caves year round. Currently, the Crown Finish caves hold about 11,000 pounds of cheese, and plans to expand and diversify production are in the works. There are, of course, a few favorite staples like Tubby, an alpine-style cow’s milk cheese from Spring Brook Farm in Reading, VT, and Reverie, an Italian toma-style cheese from Parish Hill Farm in Westminster West, VT. Ever the innovator, Brown loves to try out new techniques and create custom cheeses for clients. While I was there, he showed me a few experiments involving duck fat washes and wagyu beef tallow coatings–not exactly your typical cheese treatments.

Stop by our counter and sample the wonders of Crown Finish Caves, from the fruity, complex Suffolk Punch to the silky, toasted sesame-infused Gatekeeper. I was deeply impressed with the care and creativity that goes into crafting Crown Finish cheeses, and I’m sure you will be too.

 

Alice Bergen Phillips
Alice Bergen Phillips

Get to know the cheese at Via Umbria Read more

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Let’s Talk Artisanal Cheese

 

Via Umbria offers a unique selection of artisanal cheeses.
Via Umbria offers a unique selection of artisanal cheeses. There’s something for everyone to try!

Welcome to the Via Umbria cheese counter! Do you love cheese? We love cheese, and we’re so excited to be here, providing you with the best in cheese products, classes, and general cheesy knowledge.

There is much more to cheese than the processed and pre-sliced options you can pick up at your local grocery. Artisanal cheeses are made in so many ways, and with different blends of milk, which leads to different textures and a unique taste in each type of cheese.

While we pay homage to Via Umbria’s Italian roots with some amazing Italian cheeses (Taleggio, anyone? Or how about one of our many, beautiful pecorinos?), our goal is to bring you the best cheese that we can find, period. That includes a wonderful variety of products from all over the world – from English Stilton to bloomy rinds from Vermont, Swiss Alpines to gorgeous cheddar from Prince George’s County, Maryland.

At our counters, you can find everything from fresh and soft cheese like mozzarella to firmer options like parmigiano, from washed rinds to blues. We even have unique options like our super popular Peccorino Moliterno al Tartufi (sheep’s milk cheese with truffles!).

Cheese is our passion and we can’t wait to bring that passion to the heart of Georgetown! To learn more, and indulge in our delicious offerings, join our Cheesemongers at our Melt Cheese Party on Wednesday, February 10th, at 7pm. This decadent evening features fountains of fondue and raclette, accompanied by wine and beer pairings. For more information or to book your reservation visit us online or call us at (202) 333-3904.

 

Alice Bergen Phillips
Alice Bergen Phillips

Bringing you the best cheese that we can find Read more

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